Others require that you recover the freon from the system, then replace the switch, then re-charge.ĮDIT: A schrader valve between the switch and line. I have not replaced one on my truck, so I can't directly say, but some vehicles I have worked on have a schrader valve which means you can simply remove and replace the switch without discharging the system. If the pressures are normal, then the switch has failed (if shorting the connector causes the compressor to run. IE 30-50 on low side, maybe 190-220 on high side (these vary with ambient temp and cab temp however). If the compressor runs, I would undo the short and hook up gauges to make sure that the pressures are within reason. Normal pressures are in the 200 PSI range so the high pressure cutoff is probably set up around 250 or perhaps higher.
This switch apparently monitors both low and high pressure at the same time, and will supposedly "open" at pressures below something like 28 PSI. Disconnect the connector and while being careful, short the two wires together while the truck is cranked and see if the clutch clicks and the compressor spins. One quick test, the tacoma has a dual-function pressure switch on the high-pressure line. If you go too much beyond that you will reduce cooling, AND increase pressure which can cause leaks particularly in the evap core which is a pain to replace. Lots of possibilities, impossible to narrow it down without hands-on.ĭon't add refrigerant not knowing whether it is fully charged or not. Since you said it suddenly quit, that could be the result of a leak caused by a road object hitting the condenser or one of the lines. You said the idle picks up when you switch the system on, which suggests (to me) that the compressor actually comes on. If it does, the low pressure side will drop and the high pressure side will jump, even if just for a moment. Gauges can help because you can instantly see whether the compressor comes on or not.
If it never spins, that sounds more like low pressure as in low r134a. Does it spin and then stop? If so the A/C compressor rotation sensor might have failed. IE the clutch itself or one of the pressure switches, if it is not low on r134a.Ī starting point would be to watch the compressor hub when the A/C it turned on. However, I would suspect a mechanical failure first. They can become corroded, they can be partially disconnected, etc. (8) and finally, one of the most common failure points in any electrical circuit is the connectors that are hidden everywhere. (7) the A/C "amplifier" module can fail also. (6) there is a sensor (thermistor) in the airbox that tells the ECU that the evap core is getting too cool. You might see that under heavy acceleration, for example. (5) the ECU can tell the compressor clutch to disengage. The coil can open on occasion and once the wire breaks internally, its done until the clutch is replaced. (3) bad A/C compressor relay (which you have already checked it seems). (2) bad pressure sensors can also interfere. Not so much if it is 100 degrees outside. 120psi when ambient air is cool would be a reasonable pressure. 120 psi when system is off says you at least have some r134a. If the center of the hub is not spinning, the compressor is not running. If this is the case could it be a bad clutch and can you test the resistance of the coils on the clutch? Can you also check at the clutch if it is getting the voltage needed?įor a lucky fix, you might check the pressure sensors, particularly the connectors. Is this the same with the Tacomas? It doesn't appear to spinning. I read with many vehicles you can look at the middle of the pulley and check if the plastic region is spinning with the pulley when it engages. When I turn on the AC button the idle picks up but I don't think the clutch is engaging. I read this could be due to the clutch not engaging. I thought it may be low on refrigerant and when I connected the gauge it showed around 120 PSI. I have swapped the relay with the horn and the trailer light relays and it still is not working. I wasn't too worried about it but have to drive across the country in a week and AC would be nice out in the desert! I have read a common issue is the relay. It worked once since it went out and usually just blows warm air. So my AC quit suddenly on my 2013 Tacoma with the blinking light.
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